b'Chefs Passion Inspires NewPlant Breeding VisionChefs inspire plant breeders to create new varieties for taste and appearance.Alex MartinIT DOESNT MATTERwhat your job isanwho consider something other than the flavor artist, a scientist, a plant breederwe all pullmost people expect.creativity and inspiration from somewhere. WhileAs an example, while working with tromb-there might be vastly different inspiration pointsoncino squash, Dan Barber suggested checking between an artist and a scientist, plant breedingand cooking the squash variety more like meat seems to be a happy medium between the two.by brining and searing it to create a unique flavor. The drive, creativity and need for a variety doesntThat experiment led to Mazourek checking all always have to be scientificinspiration can comehis squash varieties in a similar fashion. Though from eating, too. moments like those, they showed me what they Both Irwin Goldman and Michael Mazourekwere doingand I wanted to know how I could have luck asking professional tasters and eaters do this better to work in the field and bring them chefsfor feedback during their breeding work.back something, he says. Just getting insight to While the two may approach the feedback in dif- make me a better plant breederonce they shareIrwin Goldman ferent ways, the ultimate goal is the same: creatingtheir insight, then Im going out into my field with a a new variety that people enjoy the sight of andnew vision.the taste of.Its important to remember humans dont just [Feedback from chefs] wasnt systematicallyeat with their mouths. They also eat with their eyes.brought into our breeding programs until the lastSometimes the focus on flavor is becoming decade, Goldman, professor in the Departmentsecondary to the way the plant looksfrom the of Horticulture at the University of Wisconsin- colors to the pigmentsthe consumer prefer-Madison, says, noting that this feedback wasence could be driven more visually rather than the thanks in part to Mazourek and Dan Barber, co- flavor, Goldman says.founders of Row Seven Seeds, as well as SteveMazourek says in addition to tasting every Jones from Washington State University. Prior tovariety, he works to understand all the different the influence of Dan and Steve, we interacted withcomponents of a variety. Chefs arent just using chefs in an ad hoc way. them for tastetheyre working to use the plant in Goldman says they would ask chefs about thea new and unique way.kind of things they were interested in, and whetherWhile theres a lot in the background to working they were willing to taste some varieties they werewith chefs, Mazourek and Goldman are excited to breeding. After chefs were brought a little moresee the relationship between plant breeders andMichael Mazourekintentionally to the program, that dialogue shiftedchefs evolve in the future.and became more open ended. Today, were doing more of what Id call par-Were actually having an ongoing, regularticipatory plant breeding, Goldman says. I believe dialogue with people who spend their life workingthats only going to be good for humanity, and that on preparing dishes and preparing food for others,humanity is going to benefit.who have great insight into the culinary propertiesMazourek says chefs are interested in new ON THE WEBof food, he says. While I can measure somethingingredients, the narratives, the backgrounds andWHERE in the lab, its also going to be important for me tohow they can support their local community have a regular interaction with a chef who is usedTheres a great opportunity where chefs can beWatch the whole conversation to working with that product in the kitchen. this fantastic ally and diversify what we have in theat: www.youtube.com/Mazourek looks to get contributions from chefsflavors to make local regions unique.SW watch?v=O6xRNQLZD2E22/ SEEDWORLD.COMOCTOBER 2023'